Описание: Korjenevskaya Peak is located in the Northern-West part of Pamir, 13 km far from Communism Peak. The peak was discovered by Russian scientist and geographer N. Korjenevskiy in 23rd of August in 1910 and was called in honour of the wife of the investigator Evgeniya Korjenevskaya. The name Korjenevskaya Peak appeared on the geographical maps officially since 1927. The first successful ascent to the top was in 22nd of August in 1953. The group consisted of eight mountain-climbers from Leningrad reached the top, ascending along the Northern edge from the glacier Korjenevskaya. For present there are known about 10 different routes of different difficulties leading to the summit. The safest and less difficult route is the route along the Southern edge from the glacier Korjenevskaya.
Program of the tour:
Day 1 Arrival in Dushanbe. Meeting at the airport, transfer to the hotel, accommodation.
Day 2 Transfer to the airport, flight to Moskvina Glade, accommodation in the Base Camp.
Day 3 Acquaintance with area. Preparation day for ascent.
Day 4 Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (5691 m). The route to Vorobiova Peak begins from the helicopter field (4530 m). The route is not technically difficult.
Day 5 Descend to Base Camp (BC).
Day 6-7 Rest days.
Day 8 Acclimatization climb to Korjenevskaya Peak. Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.). The route crosses the glacier Moskvina and goes along the good path (easy climbing is possible) to the beginning of the glacier (5100 m).
Day 9 Ascent without luggage to the camp (5300 m). The path makes a traverse of a slope and goes to the rocks and to the ragged edge of a glacier.
Day 10 Rest day.
Day 11 Rest day.
Day 12 Acclimatization climb to 5100 m, putting the camp on to 5300 m. Overnight.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800m). At first the route goes along the wide snowy-icy slope of middle abruptness (You need crampons).
Day 14 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 15 Rest day.
Day 16 Rest day.
Day 17 Ascent to the Camp 1 (5300 m). Overnight.
Day 18 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5800 m). Overnight.
Day 19 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6400 m). The route goes along the Southern-West wall upon snowy-icy slope by the gigantic traverse.
Day 20 Ascent to the summit - 7105 м. The route goes along a wide snowy slope and then - along a narrow, as a knife crest (height ~ 6550m). Good climber is alive climber!
Day 21 Descent to the Camp 3 (6400 m). Overnight.
Day 22 Descent to the Base camp.
Day 23-25 Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 26 Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 27 Departure from Dushanbe.
Preliminary dates helicopter flights 2010:
To Base Camp 22.07 25.07 29.07 01.08
From Base Camp 17.08 20.08 26.08 27.08
The cost of the tour Korjenevskaya Peak :
The cost includes:
Arranging necessary documents;
Meeting / transfer from / to airport;
All transfers according to the program;
Helicopter flights Dushanbe- BC (Moskvina Glade)-Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment 3 EUR / kg);
Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights);
Services in Base Camp:
- accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting);
- full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
- toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;
- sauna (steam room) at BC;
- medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
- electric supply 220V; 50HZ;
- high-altitude guide consultancy services;
- registration with rescue team.
The cost does not include:
The cost of visa support (24 EUR / pax);
Document of acceptance of tourist (7 EUR / pax);
Tajikistan visa (48 EUR / pax);
Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
Rent of mountaineering gear;
Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.
Наличие опыта в подобных акциях:
Personal and group equipment for expedition to the Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m) Items: Unit measure Quantity Notes 1 Track shoes pair 1 - 2 Shoes for the high attitude roads pair 1 - 3 Assault jacket GOR-TEX piece 1 - 4 Assault trousers GOR-TEX piece 1 - 5 Downy jacket piece 1 - 6 Bib and brace overalls GOR-TEX piece 1 - 7 Downy sleeping bag piece 1 - 8 Suit WINBLOCK or POLAR piece 1 - 9 Worn next to the skin linen POLAR or WINDBLOCK piece 2 - 10 Mittens for the high attitude ascents pair 1 - 11 Gloves pair 2 - 12 Peaked worm cap or hat piece 1 - 13 Flasks - - - 14 Socks-POLAR pair 3 - 15 Metallic vacuum flask 0.5-1.0 litre piece 1 - 16 Mat "KARIMAT" piece 1 - 17 Rucksack for ascent 70-80 piece 1 - 18 Clumps-right and left piece 1 - 19 Belay arrangement figure of 8 knot piece 1 - 20 Necking-belay system complete set 1 - 21 Carabin with muff piece 2-3 - 22 Snow shovel piece 1 - 23 Hygienic lip-stick piece 1 - 24 Solar control cream piece 1 - 25 Transport trunk piece 1 - 26 Pen knife piece 1 - 27 Crampons pair 1 - 28 Ice-axe piece 1 - 29 Snow goggles piece 1 - 30 Telescopic stick pair 1 - 31 Head torch piece 1 - 32 Rope (nylon) 25-30 m piece 1 - 33 Rocky hook, titanic complete set 3 - 34 Mortgage components Clamps complete set 3 - 35 Mortgage components Fredni complete set 3 - 36 Ice hooks bore for drilling ice , titanic piece 6 - 37 Snow anchors piece 2 - 38 Rocky hammer piece 1 - 39 Safety loops 5 i. piece 3 - 40 Protective helmet piece 1 - 41 Tent 2-3 m piece 1 for 2-3 person 42 Gas stove piece 1 for 2-3 person 43 Gas cylinder (230 ml.) piece 1 for 2-3 person 44 Dishes complete set 1 for 2-3 person 45 Radio station metric waves complete set 1 for 2-3 person 46 First-aid kit complete set 1 for 2-3 person